The Kenmore Elite 72483 (MSRP $4,199.99) is the perfect example of how to take a good thing and make it better. When we tested the similar Elite 74025 late last year, we thought we’d seen the best Kenmore could do. Turns out we were wrong.
The 72483 takes the 74025’s sleek design, useful layout, and excellent performance and adds a separate temperature-controlled drawer in the center.
Of course, there’s always a catch. The 72483’s MSRP is north of $4,000—a price you should never settle for. While sale prices on the 72483 have been hard to come by, we did recently see a price drop to $2,999. Still, the three-door 74025 is on sale for a much more reasonable $2,599, so we hope Kenmore drops the price on its four-door fridge even further.
Design & Usability
The 72483’s middle drawer draws air from the fridge and lets users choose between four distinct temperature settings ranging from 29°F to 42°F.
The design helps the user organize food, and can even make a fridge more family-friendly: Fill the central drawer with snacks, drinks, and other goodies for the kids, and they’ll have no reason to stand with the main doors open waiting for inspiration to strike. BBQ aficionados can also use it as a specialized meat drawer, or party hosts can use it to store wine and cheese.
Beyond that, both fridges have bright LED lights, smooth-sliding drawers, and tons of storage space that’s both accessible and—in many places—adjustable. Controls are actually located along the top of the frame around the main fresh food section, leaving the ice and water dispenser with a minimal, futuristic look.
All other differences between the two models are a bit more subtle: The water filter, for instance, is built into the left fridge door and hidden behind a shelf.
If you want this fridge in a finish other than stainless, it will save you about $100. The Kenmore 72482 comes in white, and the Kenmore 72489 comes in black. Unlike the 74025, the new model isn’t available in bisque.
Performance & Features
One word: Wow
Based on our extensive lab tests, we simply couldn’t find anything wrong with the Kenmore 72483.
The freezer did a great job keeping temperatures consistent over time, and the fridge averaged the ideal 37° average temperature over three days—which means any temperature fluctuations won’t have a major impact on your food.
Kenmore’s Airtight Crisper did an excellent job living up to its name, and retained most of the moisture added to our test materials during the 72-hour testing period. A second regular crisper is available, featuring an adjustable humidity slider.
As has been the case since the new Energy Star standards were released last year, the 72483 is very energy efficient. In fact this is one of the most efficient French door models we’ve tested. If your current fridge is ten years old, you’ll likely notice a drop in your electric bill.
In terms of extra features, this Kenmore has a very typical set. In addition to the through-the-door ice and water dispenser, the only extra feature available is Ultra Ice mode, which speeds up cube production. Also, as mentioned above, the central drawer has five distinct settings: 29°F for meat and seafood, 33°F for drinks, 37°F for deli snacks, and 42°F for chilled wine.
High-End Excellence
The new Kenmore Elite 72483 adds a fourth drawer to superb food preservation. You’ll have a hard time finding a better fridge.
The only factor keeping this exceptional appliance from our wholehearted recommendation is its price. The fact is, the Kenmore 74025 is a nearly identical model minus a middle drawer, and it’s currently on sale for about $1,000 less. The now-discontinued, four-door KitchenAid KFXS25RYMS did almost as well as the Kenmore 72483 in our tests, except we’ve found some remaining clearance models on sale below $2,000—which is an astounding deal for a four-door refrigerator.
Keep an eye on this Kenmore. As long as the price is below $3,000, it could be one of the best values on the market.
